Fort Sagadahoc

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Fort Sagadahoc

An English Colony settled at the mouth of the

Kennebec River in Maine -- 1607

Following is an account of the voyage and expedition to build and colonize Maine in which at least one and maybe more Davis ancestors had a part: Capt. James Davis, Captain of Fort Sagadahoc, as well as a Capt. Robert Davis, Sergeant-Major of the fort, who may or may not be related, are both mentioned in the various accounts I've read. It was always assumed that there was a John Davis at Sagadahoc with them but at the moment I believe that's not so; for further information about this and to see more about this period go to this link in the Family History section: Captain James Davis.)

The Jamestown settlement was planted in Virginia in May, 1607. Less than three weeks later the Plymouth Company sent out an expedition which founded a colony at the mouth of the Sagadahoc, now known as the Kennebec River, in Maine. One of the chief sponsors of this expedition was Sir John Popham, Lord Chief Justice of England. His nephew George was a leader of the colonists.

This account, found in the "Second Book" of William Strachey's History of Travel into Virginia Britania, describes the voyage in much more detail than it does the actual founding of the colony.

June 1607

The late Lord Chief Justice would not for all his hard handsell and spanish mischief give over his determination for planting of a colony within the aforesaid so goodly a country upon the River of Sagadahoc. (The opening sentence refers to a previous expedition captured by Spanish pirates.) Against the next year he prepared a greater number of planters, and better provisions, which in 2 ships he sent thither, a flying boat (A flyboat was small, easily maneuvered, could sail in shallow water, ideal for coastal exploration) called the Gift Of God wherein a kinsman of his, George Popham, commanded, and a good ship called the Mary and John of London, wherein Raleigh Gilbert (Brother of Bartholomew Gilbert who was with Gosnold in 1602) commanded which with 120 persons for planters. They broke ground from Plymouth in June, 1607, the 25th fell with Gratiosa, and the 28th took in wood and water at Flores and Coruez, (Islands in the Azores) from whence they always kept their course to the westward, as much as wind and weather would permit. They ran 200 leagues from Flores, and in the Latitude of 42 degrees they found the compass to be varied one whole point.

July 1607

From whence they stood still to the westward until the 27 of July being then in the latitude of 43 and 2/3 where they threw out the dipsing lead (The "dipsing" or deep sea lead was used to measure the ocean depth. It is referred to by other names in most of the journals) and had ground but 20 fanthom and 22 fanthom upon a bank, and here they fished some 3 hours and took near 200 of cod, very great fish and where they might have laden their ship in little time.

From hence they stood in for the main, the wind being at so-west, and as they ran in for the land, they always sounded from this bank, and having run some 12 leagues from the bank nor-west they sounded and had 60 fanthom, ooze ground black. The wind now growing scant, they were constrained to stand for the so-ward and sounded again the next day, being the 28 of July, and had 30 fathoms small stones and white shells, fishing ground.

29. They made a west way until noon and then sounding had 160 fathom black ooze.

30. In the morning they had sight of the land (Nova Scotia) and it bore off them nor-west. They sounded being 10 leagues from the shore and had 100 fathoms black ooze. They made towards the shore but could not recover it before the night took them for which they were constrained to bear off a little from the land and lie a hull all that night, where they found abundance of fish very large and great, and the water deep, hard aboard the shore, 18 or 20 fanthoms.

31. Standing in for the shore in the afternoon they came to and anchored under an island, for all this coast is full of islands but very sound and good for shipping to pass by them, and the water deep hard aboard them. They had not been at an anchor two hours when there came a Spanish shallop (It would be interesting to know from what expedition the Indians acquired these two boats, and how) to them from the shore, in her eight savage men and a little savage boy who at the first rowed about them, and would not come aboard notwithstanding they offered them bread, knives, beads, and other small trifles. Having gazed awhile upon the ship they made show to depart, howbeit when they were a little from them they returned again and bodily came up into the ship, and 3 of them stayed all night aboard. The rest departed and went to the shore, showing by signs that they would return the next day.

August 1607

The first of August the same savages returned with three women with them in another Biscay shallop, bringing with them many beaver skins to exchange for knives and beads. The sagamo of that place, they told them, was called Messamot seated upon a river not far off which they called Emannet. The savages departing they hoisted out their boat, and the pilot Captain R. Davies, with 12 others rowed into the bay wherein their ship rode and landed on a galland island, where they found gooseberries, strawberries, raspices, hurts, ("Hurts" are whortleberries or huckleberries) and all the island full of huge high trees of divers sorts. After they had delighted themselves there awhile, they returned aboard again and observed the place to stand in 44 degrees and 1/3.

2. (These dates refer to the month of August) About midnight the moon shining bright and the wind being fair at nor-east, they departed from this place setting their course so-west, for so the coast lies.

(For the next few days the Mary and John sailed along the coast, crossing from Cape Sable in Novia Scotia to Maine. On the sixth of August they anchored in the Georges Islands, mapped by Waymouth in 1605. Here the other ship, the Gift of God, joined them in a remarkably skillful rendezvous, having been separated from them during the Atlantic crossing.)

7. They weighed anchor thereby to ride in more safely, howsoever the wind should happen to blow, howbeit before they put from the island they found a cross set up, one of the same which Captain George Waymouth in his discovery for all after occasions left upon this island. Having sailed to the westward they brought the highland (Camden Hills) before spoken of to be north. About midnight Captain Gilbert caused his ship's boat to be manned with 14 persons and the Indian called Skidwares (brought into England by Captain Waymouth) and rowed to the westward, from their ship to the River of Pemaquid which they found to be 4 leagues distant from their ship where she rode. The Indian brought them to the savage's houses, where they found 100 men, women, and children and their chief commander or sagamo, amongst them named Nahanada, who had been brought likewise into England by Captain Waymouth and returned thither by Captain Hanam setting forth for these parts, and some part of Canada the year before. (No one seems to have been surprised at meeting Indians who had been to England)

At their first coming the Indians betook them to their arms, their bows and arrows, but after Nahanada had talked to Skidwares and perceived that they were Englishmen, he caused them to lay aside their bows and arrows, and he himself came unto them and embraced them and made them much welcome, and after 2 hours interchangeably thus spent, they returned aboard again.

9. Being Sunday the chief of both the ships with the greatest part of all the company, landed on the island where the cross stood, which they called St. George's Island, and heard a sermon delivered unto them by Mr. Seymour their preacher, and so returned aboard again.

10. Captain Popham manned his shallop and Captain Gilbert his ship's boat with 50 persons in both and departed for the River of Pemaquid, carrying with them Skidwares. Being arrived in the mouth of the river there came forth Nahanada with all his company of Indians with their bows and arrows in their hands, they being before his dwelling houses would not willingly have all our people come on shore, being fearful of us. To give them satisfaction the captains with some 8 or 10 of the chiefest landed, but after a little parley together they suffered all to come ashore using them in all kind sort after their manner. Nevertheless after one hour they all suddenly withdrew themselves into the woods, nor was Skidwares desirous to return with us any more aboard. Our people loath to offer any violence unto him by drawing him by force, suffered him to stay behind, promising to return unto them the day following, but he did not. After his departure our people embarked themselves, and rowed to the further side of the river and there remained on the shore for the night.

11. They returned to their ships towards the evening, where they still rode under St. Georges Island.

12. They weighed anchors and set sail to go for the River of Sagadahoc. They had little wind, and kept their course west.

13. They were south of the island of Sequin, (Sequin Island lies at the mouth of the Kennebec. The river cannot be seen from the ocean easily) a league from it, but they did not make it to be Sequin, so the weather being very fair they sought that island further to the westward. At length finding that they had overshot it, they bore up helm, but were soon becalmed, by which means they were constrained to remain at sea, when about midnight there arose a mighty storm upon them, which put them in great danger, by reason they were so near the shore and could not get off. The wind was all the while at south and it blew very stiff so as they were compelled to turn it to, and again hard aboard the lee-shore, many rocks and islands under their lee hard by them, but God be thanked, they escaped until it was day, the storm still continuing until noon the next day. (A square-sailed ship being blown toward shore in a storm had very little maneuverability.)

14. So soon as the day gave light they perceived that they were hard aboard the shore in the bay that they were in the day before, which made them look out for some place to thrust in the ship to save their lives, for towing the long boat, it lay sunk at the stern 2 hours and more, yet would they not cut her off in hope to save her, so bearing up helm they stood in right with the shore, when anon they perceived two little islands to which they made and there they found good anchoring where they rode until the storm broke which was the next day after. Here they freed their boat and had her ashore to repair her, being much torn and spoiled. These islands are two leagues to the westward of Sagadahoc. Upon one of them they went on shore, and found 4 savages and one woman, the island all rocky and full of pine trees.

15. The storm ended and the wind come fair for them to go for Sagadahoc, the river whither they were bound to and enjoined to make their plantation in, so they weighed anchor and set sail and came to the eastward and found the island of Sequin and anchored under it, for the wind was off the shore by which they could not get to Sagadahoc, yet Captain Popham with the flyboat got in.

16. In the morning Captain Popham sent his shallop to help in the Mary and John which weighed anchor and being calm was soon towed in and anchored by the Gift's side.

17. Captain Popham in his pinnace with 30 persons and Captain Gilbert in his long boat with 18 persons more went early in the morning from their ship into the River of Sagadahoc to view the river and to search where they might find a fit place for their plantation. (The location was recommended by Martin Pring who had investigated it the year before.) They sailed up into the river near 14 leagues and found it to be a very gallant river, very deep and of a good breadth, and full of fish leaping above the water, (The Sturgeon leaps out of the water and falls back with a spectacular splash.) and seldom less water than 3 fathom when they found least. Whereupon they proceeded no farther, but in their return homewards they observed many goodly islands therein, and many branches of other small rivers falling into it.

18. They all went on shore, and there made choice of a place for their plantation, at the mouth or entry of the river on the west-side, (for the river bendeth itself towards the northeast) being almost an island of a good bigness being in a province called by the Indians Sabino, so called of a sagamo, or chief commander under the grand Basshaba. (Champlain spelled this chief's name Bessabez, and Waymouth, Bashabe.) As they were on shore, 3 canoes full of Indians came by them but would not come near, but rowed away up the river.

19. They all went to the shore where they had made choice of their plantation and where they had a sermon delivered them by their preacher, and after the sermon the President's Commission was read with the laws to be observed and kept. George Popham, Gentleman, was nominated president; Captain Raleigh Gilbert, James Davies, R. Seymour (Preacher), Captain Richard Davies, Captain Harlow (the same who brought away the savages at this time showed in London, from the River of Canada) were all sworn assistants and so they returned aboard again.

20. All went to shore again, and there began to entrench and make a fort, and to build a storehouse, so continuing the 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27.

28. Whilst most of the hands labored hard about the fort and the carpenters about the building of a small pinnace, the president overseeing and applying every one to his work, Captain Gilbert departed in the shallop upon a discovery to the westward and sailed all the day by many gallant islands. The wind at night coming contrary they came to an anchor that night under a headland by the Indians called Semeamis, (Cape Elizabeth) the land exceeding goodly and great, most oak and walnut, with spacious passages between and no rubbish under and a place most fit to fortify, being by nature fortified on two sides with a spring of water under it.

29. They departed from this headland Semeamis lying in the height of 43 1/2 degrees and rowed along the shore to the westward, for that the wind was against them, and which blew so hard that they reached no further than an island 2 leagues off, where whilst they anchored two canoes passed by them, but would not come near them.

30. They returned homeward before the wind, sailing by many goodly and gallant islands, for betwixt the said headland Semeamis, and the River of Sagadahoc is a very great bay (Casco Bay) in the which there lie so many islands and so thick and new together, that can hardly be discerned the number, yet may any ship pass betwixt the greatest part of them, having seldom less water than 8 or 10 fathom about them. These islands are all overgrown with woods, as oak, walnut, pine, spruce trees, hazelnuts, sarsaparilla, and hurts in abundance, only they found no sassafras at all in the country. This night they arrived at the fort again.

September 1607

31. And the 1 of September 2, 3, and 4 nothing was done but only for the furtherance and building of the fort and storehouse to receive ashore their victuals.

5. About noon there came into the entrance of the River of Sagadahoc and so unto the fort as our people were at their work 9 canoes with 40 savages in them, men, women and children, and amongst them was Nahanada and Skidwares. They came up into the fort and the president gave them meat and drink and used them exceeding kindly. Two or three hours they remained there, and then they parted, Skidwares and another savage remaining, with whom at night Captain Gilbert, James Davies and Ellis Best went over to the furthest side of the river, whither all the rest had withdrawn themselves, and there remained with them all the night, and early in the morning, the savages departed in their canoes for the river of Pemaquid promising Captain Gilbert to accompany him in their canoes to the River of Penobscot where the Basshaba dwells.

6. and 7. The business of the fort only attended.

8. Captain Gilbert with 22 others departed in the shallop for the River of Penobscot, taking with him divers sorts of merchandise to trade with the Basshaba, but by reason the wind held easterly being contrary, it was 3 days before they got unto the River of Pemaquid.

11. Early in the morning they came into the River of Pemaquid there to call Nahanada and Skidwares to go along with them, but being arrived there, they found that they were all gone from thence unto the River of Penobscot before, wherefore they set sail for that river, and all that day as likewise 12 and 13 they sailed and searched to the eastward, yet by no means could find the river, for which they returned, their victuals spent and the wind large and good and in 2 days arrived again at the fort, having had a sight the 15th in the morning of a blazing-star to the nor-east of them.

The 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22 all labored about the fort and building up of the storehouse.

23. Captain Gilbert accompanied with 19 others, departed in his shallop to go for the head of the River of Sagadahoc. They sailed all this day, and the 24 the like until 6 of the clock in the afternoon, when they landed on the river's side, where they found a champion land, ("Champion" refers to grassland - perhaps beaver meadows.) and very fertile, where they remained all that night.

25. In the morning they departed from thence, and sailed up the river, and came to a flat low island, (Evidently near Augusta. Old maps show an island there.) where is a great cataract or downfall of water, which runs by both sides of this island very short and swift. On this island they found great store of grapes both red and white, good hops, as also chiballs ("Chiballs" are onions) and garlic. They hauled their boat, with a strong rope through this downfall perforce, and went near a league further up, and here they lay all night. In the first of the night there called certain savages on the further side of the river unto them in broken English. (These upriver Indians probably learned their English during the time of year when they frequented the coast. They very likely also knew some French.) They answered them again and parlied long with them. Towards morning they departed.

26. In the morning there came a canoe unto them, and in her a sagamo and 4 savages, some of those which spoke to them the night before. The sagamo called his name Sabenoa, and told us how he was Lord of the River of Sagadahoc. They entertained him friendly, and took him into their boat and presented him with some trifling things which he accepted. Howbeit he desired some one of our men to be put into his canoe, as a pawn of his safety, whereupon Captain Gilbert sent in a man of his.

Presently the canoe rowed away from them, with all the speed they could make up the river. They followed with the shallop, having great care that the sagamo should not leap overboard. The canoe quickly rowed from them and landed, and the men made to their houses being near a league in on the land from the riverside and carried our man with them. The shallop making good way, at length came unto another downfall which was so shallow and so swift that by no means they could pass any further. Captain Gilbert with 9 others landed and took their fare, the savage sagamo, with them and went in search after those other savages whose houses the sagamo told Captain Gilbert were not far off. After a good tedious march they came at length unto those savages' houses, where they found near 50 able men very strong and tall, such as their like they had not seen, all new painted and armed with their bows and arrows. Howbeit after the sagamo had talked with them, they delivered back again the man and used all the rest very friendly, as did ours the like by them, who showed them their commodities of beads, knives, and some copper of which they seemed very fond, and by way of trade made show that they would come down to the boat and there bring such things as they had to exchange them for ours.

So Captain Gilbert departed from them and within half an hour after he had gotten to his boat, there came 3 canoes down unto them and in them some 16 savages, and brought with them some tobacco and certain small skins which were of no value, which Captain Gilbert perceiving and that they had nothing else wherewith to trade, he caused all his men to come aboard. As he would have put from shore, the savages perceiving so much, subtly devise how they might put out the fire in the shallop (Fire was needed in order to set off the musket charge), by which means, they saw they should be free from the danger of our men's pieces. To perform the same, one of the savages came into the shallop and taking the firebrand which one of our company held in his hand thereby to light the matches, as if he would light a pipe of tobacco, as soon as he had gotten it in his hand, he presently threw it into the water and leapt out of the shallop. Captain Gilbert seeing that, suddenly commanded his men to betake them to their muskets, and the targeteers to form the head of the boat, and bade one of the men before, with his target (A "Target" was a shield.) on his arm, to step on the shore for more fire. The savages resisted him and would not suffer him to take any, and some others holding fast the boat rope that the shallop could not put off, Captain Gilbert caused the musketeers to present their pieces, the which the savages seeing presently let go the boat rope and betook them to their bows and arrows and ran into the bushes, nocking their arrows but did not shoot, neither did ours at them. So the shallop departed from them to the further side of the river, where one of the canoes came unto them and would have excused the fault of the others. Captain Gilbert made show as if he were still friends and entertained them kindly and so left them, returning to the place where he had lodged the night before, and there came to an anchor for that night.

The head of this river stands in 45 degrees and odd minutes. Upon the continent they found abundance of spruce trees such as are able to mast the greatest ship his Majesty has, and many other trees, oak, walnut, pineapple. ("Pineapple" refers to white pines.) There were fish in abundance and great stores of grapes, hops and chiballs. Also they found certain pods in which they supposed, the cotton wool to grow, (Milkweed) and also upon the banks many shells of pearl.

27. Here they set up a cross and then returned homeward, in the way seeking the by-river of some note called Sasanoa. (This tidal connection to Sheepscot Bay retains the name Sasanoa River) This day and the next they sought it, when the weather turning foul and full of fog and rain they made all haste to the fort, before which the 29 they arrived.

October 1607

30. and the 1 and 2 of October, all busy about the fort.

3. There came a canoe unto some of the people of the fort as they were fishing on the sand, in which was Skidwares who bade them tell their president that Nahanada with the Basshaba's brother, and others were on the further side of the river and the next day would come and visit him.

4. There came 2 canoes to the fort, in which were Nahanada and his wife and Skidwares and the Basshaba's brother, and one more called Amenquin, a sagamo, all whom the president feasted and entertained with all kindness both that day and the next. Being Sunday the president carried them with him to the place of public prayers, which they were at both morning and evening, attending it with great reverence and silence.

6. The savages departed, all except Amenquin, the sagamo, who would needs stay amongst our people a longer time. Upon the departure of the others the president gave unto every one of them copper, beads, or knives, which contented them not a little, as also delivered a present unto the Basshaba's brother to be presented unto the Basshaba, and another for his wife, giving him to understand, that he would come unto his court in the River of Penobscot and see him very shortly bringing many such like of his country commodities with him.

You may please to understand how whilst this business was thus followed here soon after their first arrival, that had dispatched away Captain Robert Davies in the Mary and John to advertise both of their safe arrival and forwardness of their plantation within this River of Sagadahoc, with letters to the Lord Chief Justice importuning a supply for the most necessary wants to the subsisting of a colony to be sent unto them betimes the next year.

After Captain Davies' departure they fully finished the fort, trenched and fortified it with 12 pieces of ordinance, and built 50 houses therein, beside a church and a storehouse, and the carpenters framed a pretty pinnace of about some 30 ton, which they called the Virginia, the chief shipwright being one Digbe of London.

Many discoveries likewise would have been made both to the main and unto the neighbor rivers, and the frontier nations fully discovered by the diligence of Captain Gilbert had not the winter proved so extreme unseasonable and frosty. For it being in the year 1607 when the extraordinary frost was felt in most parts of Europe, it was here likewise as vehement, by which no boat could stir upon any business. Howbeit as time and occasion gave leave, there was nothing omitted which could add unto the benefit or knowledge of the planters. When Captain Davies arrived there in the year following, set out from Topsam, the port-town of Exeter, with a ship laded full of victuals, arms, instruments and tools, etc., albeit he found Mr. George Popham the president and some others dead, yet he found all things in good forwardness, and many kinds of furs obtained from the Indians by way of trade, good store of sasparilla gathered and the new pinance all finished. But by reason Captain Gilbert received letters that his brother was newly dead and a fair portion of land fallen unto his share which required his repair home, and no mines discovered nor hope thereof, being the main intended benefit expected to uphold the charge of the plantation, and the fear that all other winters would prove like this first, the company by no means would stay any longer in the country, especially since Captain Gilbert was going to leave them and Mr. Popham as aforesaid dead, wherefore they all embarked in this new arrived ship and in the new pinance the Virginia and set sail for England, and this was the end of that Northern Colony upon the River of Sagadahoc. Note: "Sir John Popham, Lord Chief Justice of England in the year 1606 procured means and men to possess it." He sent, among others, Capt. Robert Davis to act as Sergeant-Major and Capt. James Davis to be Captain of the fort.